A roadtrip down North West Scotland 

A week exploring remote, gorgeous bits of Scotland by car  >  I love Scotland. I used...


Bodhisattwa Debnath  

Bodhisattwa's answer about road trip in Rua Reidh Lighthouse Hostel, Lochcarron, Laide, Ullapool, Inverness and Fort William

Hi! Take it from an avid road-trip junkie; there are very few things as lovely as driving back to one's roots. While the Scottish Highlands are a mesmerizing collage of sights and experiences, the added touch of country roads talking you home promises to make this trip really special. John Denver would have been proud.

What I have done here is, first figured a route from London, since you mentioned you'll be starting from that area, up till Fort William with a feasible location for an overnight  halt. Post that, we'll be starting our real trip. We will be touching through Fort William and Inverness for old times sake and see if we can brush off the dust. From Inverness, we will be exploring some of the most beloved of the Highlands' sights. Read on!

Scottish Highlands (Source: Ben) 

The Route

For the London to Fort William leg, we will be stopping over at Blackpool. While there are three major cities in the vicinity, namely Liverpool, Manchester and Leeds, I figured that a little more charm and a little less buzz are on the cards. Here's a map I have made for you. And turn based directions here.

From London (I have assumed Westminster) to Blackpool is 384 km - about 4:30 hours of driving and from Blackpool to Fort William is 486 km - about 5 hours 35 mins drive.

And here is the rest of the route. We will be touching Ullapool, Laide (Achnasheen), Gairloch, Lochcarron (Strathcarron) and Rubha Reidh. Here's the route map and directions here.


View Scottish Highlands Road Trip in a larger map

Scotland, the roads (Source: Graham Campbell) 

The Sights and More

And here's what awaits you. As mentioned, I will not be concentrating on Fort William and Inverness as you have probably been there countless times. But will certainly add a few bits that you might miss and would like to visit again.

1. Fort William

Fort William stands as a bustling town which thrives on the throng of summer tourists and is overflowing with many lovely shops, hotels, and cafes. A particular reason for its popularity is that Fort William provides for the perfect stop-over from Edinburgh to Inverness.

FortWilliam@night (Source: Muhammad Younas) 

While you walk down familiar alleys, consider giving Crannog Seafood Restaurant (mains at £13-£20, | Town Pier | Tel.: 01397/705-589 | Daily noon-2:30pm and 6-9pm ) a visit for a lovely dinner. A great way to start the trip. What was once a ticket office and bait store, this quayside eatery overlooking the Loch Linnhe serves seafood so fresh that locals often chime "it fairly leaps at you."

The ingredients are usually either from the owners own fishing vessels or their smokehouse. Definitely try out the bouillabaisse, the king prawns or the langoustines.

If you want to throw in a dash of harmless fantasy, why not hop onto the Hogwarts Express on Platform 9 and 3 quarters?

Hogwarts Express (Source: Adele Prince) 

Scotland's legendary West Highland Line is dubbed the Hogwarts Express Train line, photogenically featured in the Harry Potter films when Harry and crew are transported by train to Hogwarts School from King's Cross Station's Platform 9 3/4.

The route winds through Highlands valleys and beside lochs and glens. It begins in the Highlands capital, Fort William, under the shadow of Ben Nevis at the southern end of the Great Glen.

Hogwarts Express Train (Source: Viator.com) 

More information on the Hogwarts Express Train here. Rates are at £31 return.

Platform 9 3/4 (Source: Eva) 

2. Inverness

Fort William to Inverness > 105 km - about 1 hour 33 mins

This royal burgh and seaport in the north end of Great Glen lies nestled by the Ness River. For the amount of history associated with this town, there is a surprising lack of 'sight-seeing' options. But that does not mean that the place is barren; in fact quite the opposite if looked underneath. Moreover, it serves as a good base for touring the rest of the region.

inverness (Source: inverness) 

If you plan to make it a spot for a nightcap, going on a daytrip to the Orkney Islands would be a good idea ($83.94 for a 14 hr trip). This trip takes you through some of the major attractions on there including the Skara Brae, The Churchill Barriers, Scapa Flow, The Ring of Brodgar, The Standing Stones of Stenness and The Italian Chapel. Also included is a stop at Kirkwall where you can see the 12th century cathedral of St Magnus.

Orkney Islands (Source: Liam Quinn) 

Staying back in the town center does not disappoint either. Book an early table at the Contrast Brasserie (22 Ness Bank, | Tel.:01463-227889 | mains £10-19 | noon-2.30pm & 5-10pm). The dining room exudes designer style and comes with smiling service. Not to mention the jug of water that is brought in without asking, and of course, truly delicious food. Definitely try mussels with Thai red curry or the amazing wild mushroom risotto. A steal at £10 for a two-course lunch.

Risotto (Source: Lori_NY) 

Post that, if live music interests you, try out Hootananny (67 Church St | 01463 233651); the city’s best venue to groove in. Traditional folk and sometimes rock sessions sparkle the nights regularly. They also some very big-name bands from all over the country. Alongside music, the bar is kept well stocked with a wide range of beer which come straight from the local Black Isle Brewery.

The locales' biggest attraction no doubt remains the Ness Islands. And the leisurely stroll to get there does not hurt either. Amidst mature Scots pine, ancient fir, beech and more, the islands look lovely and are linked to the river banks through some really endearing and elegant Victorian footbridges.

Bridge to Ness Islands Inverness Scotland (Source: dave conner) 

3. Ullapool

From Inverness to Ullapool > 91.4 km - about 1 hour 19 mins

From here, I will be keeping off all the big cities and will take turns off the mainstream to keep things quaint and explore the more remote areas. First stop: Ullapool - the harbourside façade that looks like it has leaped out of a postcard. If you catch it on a sunny day, the reflections of the surrounding rocks on the bay look breathtaking.

The main attraction of Ullapool is the beautiful situation it is in beside the loch and surrounded by typical west Highland scenery. The town itself is pretty and can be wandered around in half and hour or so. Most people also end up walking over to the pretty but still functioning harbour, down to the loch or up the hill behind the town that, for very little effort, provides a wonderful view over the town and over to the Summer Isles.

Ullapool (Source: Wikitravel) 

Ullapool (Source: Pelle Sten) 

There is a ferry service that connects Ullapool to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis, bringing in a consistent flow of jolly overnighters along with it.

While there are only a few attractions per-se, an abundance of great walking paths, piles of amazing accommodation options, and not to mention the unlimited delectable seafood make this please particularly endearing.

Keith Street, Stornoway (Source: windy) 

Stop by at the Ullapool Bookshop (Quay St | Tel.: 01854-612918) for a feel of a bibliophile's old and dusty version of the town. They are nicely stocked with some gems of Scottish history and culture and the local maps come handy.

Next stop is the FBI. Not the agency, but the Ferry Boat Inn which happens to be as important to Ullapool as the castle is to Edinburgh. The wood is now bleached and the carpets not stained. That take away some of the old charm but still is a great place for the locals to mingle and have some fantastic food.

The Rhue Studio (Tel.: 01854-612460 | admissions free | Hours Mon-Sat) lies 2.5 miles northwest of Ullapool and is home to some amazing contemporary art from the local favorite James Hawkins.

Ullapool Harbour (Source: Matthew Wilkinson) 

4. Laide and Gairloch

Ullapool to Laide > 66.3 km - about 58 mins

If remote is defined by a tiny seaside hamlet with one small hotel, a church, one post office, a camp site and a petrol station, then Laide is the perfect example. The whole place is an attraction unto itself and the breathtaking views of the Gruinard Bay along with the ruins make for a place perfect to just forget the outside world. What makes it even better is that the locals have opened up to taking guests; a plethora of Bed and Breakfasts. Particularly popular is the Lover Croft Guest House.

Laide coast (Source: Chris)

About 23.7 km (21 mins or driving) from Laide is Gairloch. It is another small settlement that has a number of distinct points of focus. Charlestown is the most southernly point where lies the quaint little harbour. The road meanders toward the Gairloch Golf Club which overlooks a beautiful beach. Nestled nearby are two churches - a brown stoned Free Church with stunning views and the white-harled kirk more on the inland. Nearby is the Gairloch Heritage Museum (Ross-shire IV21 2BP | Tel.: 01445 712 287).

Gairloch Free Church of Scotland, Gairloch (Source: stu smith) 

5. Lochcarron

From Gairloch to Lochcarron > 81.1 km - about 1 hour 7 mins

Home to prestigious woven fabrics and exclusive knitwear, Lochcarron is a very small village that spreads over a line of about a mile along the north-eastern coastal shore. Once again, the main attractions are the seemingly endless number of views it offers. The village also has a large number of quaint shops selling the local fare and by far the richest selection of accommodation options between Kyle of Lochalsh and Gairloch. 

There is a wealth of accommodations for visitors from efficiency units to hotels as well as a delightful selection of quaint stores for your shopping enjoyment. The fishing heritage of the town is evident in the concrete pier and the small harbour with its fishing boats. The road tends to bypass the southern part of the town.

Lochcarron (Source: Scottish Holidays) 

Loch (Source: Jamie Neely) 

6. Rua Reidh Lighthouse Hostel

From Lochcarron to Rua Reidh > 126 km - about 1 hour 54 mins

Also known as the Rubah Reidh, or the Rubh'Re Point, this even tinier and remote hamlet is known for its light house.

A lighthouse on Rubh'Re Point was first proposed by David Stevenson in 1853. Building was started by his son, David Alan Stevenson in 1908 and the light was first lit on 15 January 1912.

Rua Reidh Lighthouse (Source: Wikipedia)

Rua Reidh Lighthouse (Source: ms.akr) 

You might notice the original Fresnel lens from here now housed in the Gairloch Heritage Museum. The lighthouse has been turned to a picturesque hostel. Definitely recommended for a night's stay.

Here's what a fellow traveler has to comment:

We walked to this gorgeous lighthouse very recently on a beautiful day! It was well worth the trek as the views are spectacular. It should be noted though that access to the lighthouse/grounds is restricted to hostel guests. There is a small tea room.

Rubha Reidh Lighthouse (Source: Wikimapia) 

They have a personalized walking tour organized here that promises to be quite rewarding.

Rua Reidh lighthouse foghorn mechanism (Source: Shandchem) 

Hope this helps. Once we are decided on the route and the places that I have selected, I can then go ahead and chalk out a list of some lovely accommodation options. Do let me know of the locales where you'd like to spend the nights.

Until then,

Have a great time!

-Debnath

A Scottish pier (Source: Maciej Lewandowski) 


September 7, 2011  •  Like   •  Add comment   •  Ask question


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October 1, 2011  -   October 9, 2011



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