Being a woman who loves visiting new places, I have come to realize that: traveling in general has provided me with the only honest experiences I have. I call them honest because as per definition, these experiences are true and faithful. And the aspect of traveling alone in particular has added an inward spiritual aspect to all these experiences. The journey is as much within as without, and hence more complete than it could have ever been.

on the platform by moriza

It pleases me to see young women exploring unknown shores – alone and even without a post break up depression! There isn’t a ‘Motorcycle Diaries’ like feel to this exploration, it isn’t a quest to prove or to achieve, but simply a doing of something that is equal parts personal growth and fun. Metamorphosis in a jiffy, if you will! Scholars give credit to the increasing socio-economic status of women; politicians claim the advancement in security has lead to the creation of a safe environment for women to travel; the development in the tourism sector is another factor. Existentialist philosophers with a pinch of masochism would say it represents the vacuum in a women’s life. Well! All claims are true but only in degrees. The underlying fact is that women in India have finally realized their freedom and the fact that they now know how to use these socio-politico-economical factors in their favor marks this realization.

by Minh and Melissa

Till a few years back, women were restricted to few destinations, and travelling abroad or away from home was only for practical reasons. A degree was to be earned, or a family member undeniably insistent or it just was a matter of bread and butter. The US of A and our beloved Queen’s England have been the preferred destinations, and seeing how one always knows someone or the other in these countries who can take care of the lone traveler, these places have earned the tag of being ‘safe’.

Australia and New Zealand have recently been added to that list, what with experts at education fairs talking dime to a dozen about their glories. Even when it comes to business women, one hardly hears them talk of an important meeting to be held among the ruins of ancient Mexico! Historically and socially, these have been the destinations that a woman travelling alone knows aren’t much trouble. Be a little cautious, carry the pepper spray at all times, do not travel after the hours of dark and avoid strangers who look too nice – and you should be safe. Oh and the most important advice – stick to the crowded areas of the city, and DO NOT try the offbeat track. So, New York is fine, but New Orleans with its uninhibited and seductive jazz strains is not. Sydney and the Opera house but put the outbacks of Australia on the list and you are asking for too much! Even the grand temples of Angkor Vat in Cambodia were beyond reach until Lara Croft and her acrobatic adventures!

by linkogecko

But as women all over the world have started to push the envelope when it comes to their travelling choices, the industry has no other option but to accept graciously. Various destinations which were considered inapproachable by women previously are now becoming friendly to women travelers as they are not only viable customers but also because by safeguarding women travelers the host country/state also portrays itself as a civilized and safe society; which guarantees many benefits. You might still have to join the Red Cross if you ever do want to visit Somalia, but if its backpacking around Europe you find alluring, or an adventurous trek in the mountains of Machu Pichu – you are not really alone anymore.

The web is replete with women who have done the un-doable and yet survived to tell the tale. Tour operators with their women friendly packages, cab services run for and by women, airport lounges and special train cars, a whole new system is being put into place to aid those who are not deterred by the prospect of a lone voyage.

by Gastev

A friend once said that more than anything, it is the idea of trying too hard to remain safe while travelling alone that scares her the most. It is easy to get worried and panic when you have no one else to turn to. It is easy to feel uneasy when you sit alone at a bar with your favorite drink and have its taste tainted with unwanted stares. And it’s so easy to lose that sense of discovery when you are busy looking over your shoulders instead of the vistas ahead. Despite claims of progress and prosperity, there are some ground truths that will never be changed. The sooner we women accept it, the faster we can get down to getting around it. And get on the road where we truly belong – a few smart moves, some well researched travel hacks and an open mind in tow. Safety and fun are after all relative quantities, and ironic as it may sound, sometimes opening oneself up is the best way of combining the both.

by Rhyick

 Contributed by ~ Trishya Kumari

Copenhagen Bike Culture by Mikael Colville-Andersen

Copenhagen is not cheap. Not this way or that. But economical? Well that can very well be managed. The city’s brilliance is so apparent that it is not a necessity to shell out those Krones to take in the best.

Morning: Harry’s Place, Døp hotdogs and Abnormal Analogies

“As big as winning the handball world cup” – one of Copenhagen’s most loved chefs said this when, noma, René Redzepi’sgastronomical masterpiece which tried to pay the world’s due to the Nordic produces was declared the best restaurant in the world. It is important to have Danish or  particularly pure Parisian blood running through the veins to understand the importance of that analogy. However, the prices are queenly and relatively, the chances of finding an empty table here is just as likely as being invited to the Queen’s Palace for dinner.

Espressomanden or Esspresso Man by Mikael Colville-Andersen

However, all hope is not lost. In fact, quite the reverse. The locals, voted on their favourite newspaper Politiken for their most loved Copenhagen eatery, and the winner was the humble hotdog stall of Den Økologiske Pølsemand (literally, the organic hotdog man). Better known as the Døpfor short, it makes for the perfect breakfast stop. Sitting right next to the Round Tower in the city centre, it dishes out lip-smacking grilled pork and beef sausages along with buns that are nurtured from slow-fermented sourdough bread and linseed.

Organic hotdog by sarah_lincoln

For a more classic variety, there’s Harry’s Place on the outskirts of the Nørrebro district. The place has been around for over five decades now and has among its glitzy list of patrons, two of Copenhagen’s former prime ministers. Its pièce de résistance is a 150g wiener called Børge, allegedly named after a lorry driver who used to consume three of the sausages during his daily visits – Comments The Guardian. 

Cost: A Børge with bread and condiments (ask for the secret “gun powder” sauce) comes for 3.49 Euro, an brillaint organic hotdog at the Døp for 4.84 Euro.

Day: The Cycles and Vintage falafel

9 in 10 Danish adults own a cycle (bike if you prefer). The Cycling Embassy of Denmark is an organization that promotes biking in the city and has done a mighty good job out of it – Copenhagen is among the most bicycle-crazy cities on earth. For us, it translates into an ultra cheap mode of travel, coupled with lovely sightseeing opportunities. Exploration while on a saddle is a snap, it is also the best way to get the best out of Copenhagen.

Copenhagen Fashionista on Wheels by Mikael Colville-Andersen

For a leisure pedal, there is the grassy Assistens Kirkegaard cemetery (here is buried many luminaries the likes of Hans Christian Andersen and Soren Kierkegaard), a great place for some sober wandering and then some picnic time – a favorite to many Danes. Alternately, a more dotted experience is to cruise along the city center while admiring the flamboyant but stately Amalienborg Palace (Slotsplads), where live the reigning Queen Margrethe II lives, and the Dutch Renaissance-style stock exchange called the Borsen – a very unique facade, specially with its dragon-tail spire.

Not to mention, there are fantastic view of the city’s orange-tile roofs and green copper domes to look out for. The vistas from atop the gilded candy-twist spire of Vor Frelsers Kirke (Sankt Annae Gade 29) are particularly striking.

Cost: The Baisikeli (Turesensgade 10) has rentals from 6.72 Euro for a half-day.

copenhagen...from above by me, charlotte

A unique decor complete with old time accessories mounted on the walls, a lovely intimate atmosphere, furniture from the 50′s, fantastic food and service that is just perfection, the Kalaset (Vendersgade 16) makes choosing difficult. Essentially organic, they get their ingredients from bio-farm. One more reason to try out this place. Definitely worth trying out is their falafel. And the potatoes with rosemary, French fries and cheese are to die for.

Cost: Around 2 to 5 Euro for a lunch.

kalaset by Mike Towbe

Afternoon: Medicine, Music and Breweries

Hidden away right at the end of Bredgade, is Copenhagen’s Museum of Medical History (also called as the Medical Museion) which is a part of the University of Copenhagen and this museum is quite certainly one of the city’s best hidden gems. Containing many historic medical instruments which rather often look like methods of torture, chairs that were meant for examining prostitutes and cholera stretchers amongst many other exhibits. The atmosphere is known to get particularly ghoulish for some.

Cost: Entry 7 Euro

The Carlsberg Byen (yes, that particular brand) has been around for hundreds of years, at the very heart of Denmark’s brewing industry. The bulk of the brewing process has however been moved elsewhere now but that has only helped in rejuvenating this amazing industrial quarter into what it is now; a collection of vibrant galleries, lovely theaters and other attractions.

Carlsberg Brewery (Source: jill, jellidonut… whatever) 

There’s a quite dramatic elephant archway which stands at the entrance on Ny Carlsbergvej. Quite a few things to check out here – the gallery complex of Ny Carlsbergvej 68; the amazing dance theater and center DANSEhallerne (not to mention its foyer cafe, Elefanten); the calm and serenity of J.C. Jacobsens Park; and of course, the brewery’s museum. But we need to choose any one of these so that we keep within both the time and money constraint.

Cost: DANSEhallerne entry at 7 Euro, show tickets usually start around 6 to 10 Euro

Evening and Night: Books and Gypsy Trumpets.

For this one, one needs to have the eye. For long, Norrebro has ben the working-class mixed-ethnicity melting pot of Copenhagen. And now, also a very diverse party spot. For one, the neighborhood is literally covered in punk street art.

In Norrebro by Blastframe

The Underwood Ink feels more like a living room full on eclectic intellectuals than a drinking hole.  There are bookshelves packed with international literature (these are for sale), some obscure paintings by even more obscure European artists (also for sale) and the tables piled are stacked with with microbrewed Danish beer bottles. A local recommends the sweet-sour Porse Guld.

At Underwood Ink by Kieran Lynam

A few blocks away, is the meeting place of world-music geeks, hippies and grad students where thy swig Cuban Cristal beer. The Global is a cozy little space with an elevated stage showcasing some really wide-ranging acts the likes of  Mali’s Bassekou Kouyate and scores from the rather popular Serbian Gypsy trumpet legend by the name of Boban Markovic.

For dinner, an ideal place would be the Tight, where is an authentic Danish lifestyle; with mix of cuisine, prompt service, both indoor and outdoor seating, and of course, great food. Particularly endearing is theirseafood pasta, the amazing white wine and steamed mussels.

Cost: drinks at Global or Underwood Ink at around 8 Euro and dinner at Tight for around 6 Euro

Tight! by whatleydude

There’s a lot to travel that is best done frugal. And often, they are the best ones.

-Debnath

nothin' but tail lights by Kim Mc.

Carrying on from our series of the Greatest Road-trips, driving across the Australian Outback and South West Scotland, we now trace the route from Memphis to New Orleans. We might as well dub it the Blues roadtrip. We will be doing Memphis –> Greenwood –> Natchez –> New Orleans.

View Memphis to New Orleans Road Trip in a larger map

Since I dig wheels, a good idea would be to grab something out of the usual SUV or compact. There are some really gorgeous ones at Exotic Car Rentals (3254 Elvis Presley Blvd Memphis) and TCB Dream Rentals (251 Union Ave, Memphis). Maybe Elanor?

Mustang 1969 by Didier Lahousse

Stop-overs and sleep-overs

From Memphis, we will be heading down south along Route 61, then cross-over due east on Route 49 (about 135 miles total) towards Greenwood, Mississippi. For a sleep over, it is well worth considering Alluvianhere. A place that welcomes anomaly: boutique hotel in the middle of a sleepy town, which was once the cotton capital of the world.

Old Truck - Greenwood by brewbooks

Next stop; three hours farther south, Natchez, Mississippi. Temptation is to splurge a little in a totally deserving Monmouth Plantation. A beautiful Greek-revival-style mansion, it hugs modern day with wireless Internet and Jacuzzi tubs while keeping those wrought-iron and wood fireplaces working. A more humble but at the same time, more intimate alternative is Joseph Newman Stone House; a rebuilt billiard hall built from the 1850s. Post Natchez, is a slower but certainly more scenic Route 61 onward to New Orleans.

Natchez, Mississippi by Ken Lund

The Eats

Before heading out on the drive, a must-do is Rendezvous, just a few blocks from the Madison. By far, one of the best dry rubs out of all the barbecue joints in Memphis.

On the first stop, in Greenwood, Crystal Grill (423 Carrollton Ave, Greenwood)is a definitely must-stop. Fantastic tamales with fried pickles. The proportions overflow and is completely the dime’s worth. Tamales are packed with beef.

Tamales by tavallai

Even if we decide to give the Monmouth Plantation in Natchez a pass, there’s the five-course dinners for a change of scene. It is formal, though. The menu changes daily but usually includes seafood gumbo, Louisiana redfish, or a thick filet.

On our way out of town, there’s the Donut Shop (501 John R. Junkin Dr.). Essentially a drive-in dishing out Big Poppa’s hot tamales wrapped in corn husks, wrapped in aluminum foil, wrapped in newspaper. And of course, those killer glazed doughnuts.

delicious fried oyster appetizer by eric molina

Once in New Orleans, revel is the good news that the Nawlins foodies are loving: many of the oldest and most revered joints have reopened, and quite a few new entrants are trickling in quite fast. Café du Monde in the French Quarter is a rage. For lunch, there is no competition to R&O’s (216 Metairie Hammond Hwy) on Lake Pontchartrain. They serve brilliant crawfish (heads and all) here along with some fried-oyster po’boys.

As for watering holes, John Besh’s new brasserie, Lüke, serves delectable seafood along with his massive selection of Belgian, German and French beers.

French Quarter by irene 2005

What’s to Do

Route 61 is the Blues Highway. A stop at Ground Zero Blues Club (352 Delta Avenue, Clarksdale) to hear some authentic vibes is a religious must. After that, is a roll on to 49 East towards Greenwood. Vikingcalls it their headquarter town. It is the birthplace of Muddy Waters, also the childhood home of Sam Cooke. There’s more; Bessie Smith drew her last breath here.

blues Clarksdale by science_jerk

The New Delta Blues Museum (1 Blues Alley, Clarksdale) has a new location – the old train station, and that life-size remake of Muddy Waters is a sight.

In Natchez, the list of things to do is a longer one. There’s Stone House Concerts (804 Washington Street, Natchez). The owner chimes:

Enjoy sipping complimentary wine while relaxing to music of the Masters, played on a 1903 Steinway grand piano in the Stone House Music Room. Hear this private classical piano performance by a graduate of two prominent American conservatories, along with complimentary wine, followed by a tour of the unique Stone House

Old South Winery (65 Concord Ave, Natchez) produces 12 table wines and it also offers some amazing tours and tastings.

Once in New Orleans, we might as well give the sloppy Bourbon Street a pass and instead, stroll down through the many galleries and antique stores of Chartres and Royal Streets. There is a sweaty night offered at Maple Leaf Bar (8316 Oak St.), a smashing live music venue.

Maple Leaf Bar by Infrogmation of New Orleans

Selling the Soul and Catching the Blues

A home-truth – for all those in hunt for the crossroads where Johnson sold his soul to the devil – there’s no one crossroad! Perhaps it is the single most inquired question at every information center and blues museum along the Mississippi.

However, because of the constant pressure, out of the hundreds of crossroads in the Delta region, the Mississippi Visitors Bureau has finally given in and has marked the “official” crossroads location. The grail is at the intersection of Highway 61 and 49

Crossroads - Clarksdale, MS by Joe Mazzola

In order to catch some contemporary and recurring classic blues, there’s a thing – once you are outside of Memphis, and if you do not find yourself in Jackson or New Orleans, you will be hard pressed to find live music during the week. It is recommended to travel during the weekends to find some tunes in the Delta region.

-Debnath

At Gorky Park by Geir Halvorsen

Moscow invariably reminds me of Russian ballet, the Kremlin, the era of the Czars, Stalin and lots of imposing architecture, in no particular order. The imposing buildings and the impeccably dressed, tall, good looking people everywhere in their evening coats lend an air of opulence to the city. Everything here is glamorous and decadent, but if you go past the glitzy clubs, the glittering skyscrapers and fancy restaurants, you’ll find many parts of the city are simple in their beauty and you experience a different side of Moscow. The pleasure lies in finding that side, and once you do there’s nothing like it.

Babushka - Craft stall near Gorky Park by qwertyuiop

On carrying ski gear and trying street-side hotdogs

Take its many eccentricities – it isn’t uncommon to see people randomly selling puppies or kittens in the subway, or the famous Russian policewomen with their bright scarlet nails and black boots, people always on the move, carrying just about anything anywhere, from office chairs to even ski gear. It can be rather strange at first, but then tends to grow on you.

One of the experiences that well defines the city is its food, and food does not normally spring to mind when I think of Moscow. it turns out, there’s much more to the city than what gives out at first scratch. And a great way to discover is by trying out the culinary craft of a Russian equivalent of a street-side hot dog vendor. Russian food is usually rich and wholesome – created to keep one warm and satiated in the bitter winter chill. Some staples include borsch, which is basically beet soup flavored with meat, vegetables and sometimes garnished with a dollop of sour cream. Blini is another favorite – Russian version of pancakes, with a hearty stuffing which could either be jam, cheese or sometimes even chocolate.

Buying supper by Andy Hares

Most people tell me and the prospective visitors that eating out in Moscow is generally very expensive. While that can be true (blame it on the Zarish extravagance), it’s a lot lovelier to take a stroll along Moscow’s many beautiful boulevards and streets and sample some of the street food there is to offer. It should be said though, that it’s better to stick to known names – the Russians can get quite experimental.

Baked potatoes, cheese and dinner of a rich Muscovite

There are these little street carts, some with their own brands – a must-try is Kroshka Kartoshka, which, when roughly translated, means ‘Pretty Little Potato’. Logically, they sell delicious baked potatoes with a variety of different kinds of stuffing like feta cheese, sour cream (smetana) and pickles, lox and bacon as toppings. Top it off with a glass of beer and we are all set for a lovely day.

"Kroshka Kartoshka" Russian fast food stands are all over Moscow by Swerz

If it’s early in the morning, it makes perfect sense to start the day with some lenyoshki, (freshly baked bread) made of a certain type of grain found in Uzbekistan. Delicious and fresh, it really fills you up and seriously gives a good appreciation of how something as basic as bread can be so different in another part of the globe.

In the summer months, the time is prime for some morozhenoe, or Russian ice-cream. Much icier and more delectable than your usual western brands. Once again, numerous carts on the streets to choose from and long lines to circumvent.

by World Bank Photo Collection

For something different, there are the blinis at Teremok, a chain kiosk that sells delicious brown and orange blinis with all kinds of stuffing both sweet and savory. At Dorogomilovo, close to Kiev’s railway station is a fresh produce market which sells, among other things, a whole range of locally made cheeses, fresh herbs and juicy, wholesome vegetables. Some of the cheese with a bottle of wine from L’Intendant –indulgence, Moscow-style, and finally, the likeness of a dinner of a typical, wealthy Muscovite.

Finally, when you’re in Moscow, drink as the Muscovites do. Russian vodka is the obvious choice, but there’s the traditional kvas too – a fermented rye beverage that’s known to be very heady. And kvas can be found almost anywhere, including street vendors and local grocery shops.

Exploring Moscow is a pleasure in itself, and discovering its many-layered wonders requires patience and the willingness to explore. The charm of Moscow is one of a kind, and usually intrigues, and stays with long after the trip.

Post contributed by Nandini Swaminathan

On the way to Moscow by archer10 (Dennis) OFF

Chinatowns have always fascinated me in more ways than one. One of them being the story of intense resilience that they tell. I came down hunting for the “best” Chinatowns in the world – the most dazzling ones, the most shocking ones. As far as culture shock goes, the ones that came up on the list were all from South East Asia. But I guess, you really can’t call it a Chinatown if it is so close to China!

China Town Tea Shop in San Francisco by Randy Pertiet

The one with the Opium Wars – San Francisco

No matter how one gets acquainted with SFO’s Chinatown – through the grand entrance, the rather dramatic portal at Grant Avenue and Bush Street, or maybe a chance stumble on one of those wanderings around San Francisco, this is one sight that never fails to surprise.

Walking down its slim streets and lanes, eyes fall on the exotic ingredients being hawked, those famed silks and jade sold and displayed, and hundreds of colorful mementos and lamps all over the place.

The 1800s brought the first Chinese here, and as laborers. Before half a century was over, about 25,000 more moved in. They fled famine and the Opium Wars, and they came seeking all that the “Gold Mountain” of California had to offer – to one day make a fortune and head back to China. For most, the Great American Dream turned out to be nothing more than bare sustenance.

at Chinatown by davitydave

The little men from the east went on from the gold rush to the train era, making railroads, and then to some other age. All the while, Chinatown ghetto thrived and extended its borders. Prejudice took over one fine day in 1882 when the “Chinese Exclusion Act” was passed, banning all Chinese immigration for ten years. But ten years became almost a century until in 1943 the act was repealed. The ghetto did not grow much in boundaries during the time. But still it lived.

Today, San Francisco’s Chinatown is a world of its own. A neighborhood which has the highest concentration of the nationality in the States – about 80,000 people. Some have moved to nearby nooks of Richmond and Sunset. What sets this place a little apart from the other Chinatowns is that it thrives not on tourism. It does so by being what it was a century ago – a community of Chinese immigrants living out a life on polar ends with the people just on the next street.

Chinatown, SFO by Thomas Hawk

Tradition runs so deep here that it is difficult to figure out if we are still in the west, or did we just cross over to Shanghai. Through an open window, a woman can be heard  shuffling mah-jongg tiles. An old man (funny how he reminds me of Ip Man) sits patiently, unmoving. There’s something about them; perhaps it is the time, perhaps the displacement that make them so eerily patient with everything.

The Waverly Place has been redecorated and instead of the black soot that once lined the endless restaurants’ common walls, now there are celebratory splashes of red, yellow, and green. At Norras on number. 109, silence is sacred – one of the three temples here.

The main shopping street remains lined with grocers, tea-shops, herbal stores, noodle parlors, and many other little stores selling unpronounceables.

by Thomas Hawk

The one with the Red Egg – New York, New York

Manhattan is both new and old. While fashion changes with every season, somewhere between every other spanking new boutique, there is an old store selling second hand books while the house cat curls around the customer’s feet. Take for instance that little part of Manhattan that has retained a little bit of China – all safe and secure.

East Broadway Chinatown, New York City by moriza

Does not mean nothing has changed. Apotheke is new. And it is a non-Chinese intruder. It sits right at Bloody Angle (remember those God Father inspirations and the bloody gang killings of the 1900s?) and charms with its décor, dim lighting, and pretty imaginative cocktails. The Deal Closer is a curious mix of cucumber, diced mint, vodka, a dash of lime, and vanilla. Comes along with the Chinatown aphrodisiacs.

Apotheke NYC by Roitsch

Here is also Red Egg – a place which, according to some, gives “quasi-performance”. There’s a quite lively dance floor, instead of the usual fish balls. The establishment is on a street that gets rather quiet after dark. Inside however, dim red and purpule lighting reminds of a particularly murky Chinese novella. Not a place where you’d expect a lively mosh-pit. But it does happen. Oh every once in a while!

Chinatown, NYC by moriza

Chinatown NYC has lighter shades, no doubt. Not too far away, but in a dramatically brighter neighborhood, is the “Original Chinatown Ice Cream Factory“. But almost completely hidden by the mighty Häagen-Dazs – your local neighborhood competition. But the Original keeps as busy as it were. Perhaps because you get scoops full of green tea, some ginger, the popular passion fruit and and the local favorite, the lychee sorbet. Might as well call it Original’s every flavored ice-creams. If that’s not good enough for a peek, there are those yellow T-shirts with printed dragons to buy.

Life in Chinatown by Mulia

I always found Chinese tea a tad uninteresting. They look like boiled water and herbs. Perhaps because they are just that. But for serious drinkers, there’s always Sun’s Organic Garden. An astounding array of jars full of herbs home-grown in the east and shipped over, make up the walls. Ti Kuan Yin, a variety that is roasted in-house, has a potent fragrance. And fragrance is important here. You will find men and women with the same patience as the bloke in SFO, selecting their fruits, after a very careful fragrance-scrutiny.

Mulberry Street Fruit Vendor, Chinatown, NYC by moriza

Culture is known to enthrall. Has always been that way. And it gets even more stunning when two of an unlike kind mingle. Chinatowns, perhaps, are the best examples of this.

-Debnath

Kolkata, in 2011 by b_debnath

I noticed a few things as soon as I stepped out. First that the city is incredibly camera friendly. Perhaps it stems from the city’s unbelievable familiarity with arts; classic, performing and the modern. The second was a realization that the bloke who attached “joy” to the city’s name, must have been in a poetic trance and at his allegorical best. This I say because the city, while by no means is a personification of all things nice, somehow, brings out an intense feeling of elation.

Carrying Religion by b_debnath

The third thing that I figured, and this has the most to do with this post, was that it is on foot that the city is best appreciated. While I had the pleasure of the company of one of Kolkata’s oldest families, not all who wander here can be expected to have such acquaintances. Not that one will have to look too far for direction. The people are living information directories here. While most Westerners, with the possible exception of La Nuit Bengali (a Bengali Night), have interpreted it as a city of struggle, many others are infuriated by this one-sided depiction.

Kolkata, I found, is deeply etched in an era, and a sensibility that is lost in time – an immense city which comes out as a celebration of human existence playing out right in front of the eyes.

the rickshaws by b_debnath

Coming back to the walking part. While I was trying to discover as much as I could in the little time I had in hand, I saw things I did not expect. Plazas the kind one would find in Seville, or Rome. The kinds that are glorified by the guidebooks. I found Gothic architecture in the middle of the street, Russian styled apartments built in the late 1800′s and people still living in them. I saw gargoyles atop staircases and weather-vanes made of iron; the types no longer built. And hence this post. A collection of some of the best routes in the city that are well worth the walk.

at the Victoria Memorial by b_debnath

College Street – The Renaissance Trail

Kolkata Magic runs the Renaissance Walk in the captivating College Street -  the hub of the social and intellectual concerns that had once shaped India. The area was the epicenter of the Indian renaissance and as the phenomenon goes, was the forum for questioning orthodoxies. Although called ‘street’, it is more like a neighborhood and as any neighborhood in Kolkata goes, a huge melting pot of cultures. A crazy network of lanes stock full of books. Used and new publications alike. There are gems to be found here. In fact, local literary evangelists haunt the street to pick out rare first editions and signed copies. Some even manuscripts, easily dating back a century if not more.

College Street: librairies by sandrinecohen22

And then there is the hugely popular Coffee House. A place of intellectual importance where in times of financial decadence, emerging artists, poets, musicians and journalists exchanged ideas, hopes, philosophies and carefully guarded dreams. There is a cult song by a popular singer Manna Dey, where he reminisces his own time there. Here is Kolkata at its literary and intellectual best.

Calcutta Coffee House by lecercle

Kumartuli – about creating religion

The Durga Puja is an event like nothing I have seen. And I have seen a good share of festivals and rituals. The colours, the glamour, the fascinating ladies, and the astounding art create a world of their own.

At Kumartuli, artisans in seemingly endless lines of idols lit by light bulbs, tirelessly practice the craft. The walk fringes along the riverside, meandering along the living quarters of the artisans, the place where the material for the idols is sourced from, and a myriad of other associated sights. Walks of India rediscovers Kumartuli and its internationally renowned artisans who create magic out of straw and clay.

Kumartuli - Were we made with this care? by NesQuarX

Sovabazar and Kolkata’s royal side

Another Walks of India endeavor that concentrates on the city’s royal limbs. A neighborhood that once was home to Kolkata’s upper social strata, it now represents a flamboyant cosmopolitan melting pot. With unique architecture of the city’s aboriginal dwellings forming a backdrop. This is where the richer Bengalis made their homes. Call it the Beverly Hills of Kolkata, or the other way round if it so pleases you. Either way, a great place to check out India’s secular architecture, which goes back centuries.

Somewhere in Sovabazar by Proxy Indian

Here is an unbelievable number of grand palatial homes, many of them still house Kolkata’s erstwhile royalties. Such properties have the usual characteristics of flowing courtyards, massive rooms, endemic window leaves and intrinsically made arches. Punctuating these old houses are some small press establishments. Places which printed the first volumes during the city’s renaissance.  There’s street-food to look out for, those fantastic egg-roles and the city’s version of Chinese. During the fight for independence, the streets of Sovabazar was known to be particularly notorious – the extremists were able to ‘vanish’ at will among the numerous narrow lanes; the opposing walls easily keeping off any vehicles. An art of disappearing that often led the pursing British to either annoyance or suspicion of voodoo.

The Flower Market and the quintessential Howrah Bridge

Kolkata Magic conducts this tower. However, I would say it can well be done independently. The area, although a mayhem of activity, does not really require a guide, being right beside the transport hub of the city, the Howrah station. The Flower Market is a one of its kind real-life spectacle. No discernible market lanes, stalls or even a well defined boundary. But rather, a huge open space, a riot of colours, and countless vendors selling flowers by the tons. By far not a tourist attraction. The sight of an old man siting by himself in a comparatively quieter nook and reading a newspaper in such profound peace and content, and once again, “City of Joy” rings a bell; more audible now.

Flower Power by lecercle

The market is almost directly under the Howrah Bridge which is quite a photogenic landmark. So much, that enough has been said about it. Wandering enough towards the east leads to more hidden culture – an entire market just dealing with mustard oil. And I mean an entire market – streets of it! Next comes a market for onions. I was told, as I sat inside one of those lovely yellow cabs, that I was seeing the outer reaches of the “Bara Bazar”. I got an idea of just how large that might be.

The Howrah Bridge by b_debnath

From the little that I saw, two things were very clear – that Kolkata deserves a re-look, and that it will easily take a very large number of visits before I can say “been there, done that”. Some of the pictures in the post were taken in late October, at a time when perhaps, Kolkata is at its glamorous best.

-Debnath

The Durga Puja by b_debnath

The difference is much more stark after a long, straight and dusty two-hour drive from Marrakesh – Essaouira; the difference is a stare-at-your-face one. But as positive as it gets. The place comes as a breath of fresh air. And quite literally too. Apart from the brilliant breeze and the almost fictional temperature practically in the middle of a desert (not to mention the preoccupation that it is in Africa), the thing that welcomes upon first sight is the abrupt change in the locale’s color palette. One of the small towns and cities that dot Morocco’s Atlantic coast, Essaouira stuns in refreshing whites and lovely blues. And the rather rare sandy pink.

The port of Essaouira by Constantin Philippoff

Siting atop a roof along the western ramparts of the walled city, the gaze is easily stolen by the fascinating show over the Atlantic – a brilliantly blue sky, sun still up and casting its rays over the sparkling ocean with the rising crescent moon as a backdrop. And just like that, twilight comes and goes, bringing up a starry night. Indeed, the perfect midsummer night’s dream.

by mhobl

Of purple dog noses, fish markets and herbal aphrodisiacs

Essaouira is a peculiar city, with tales of purple dog noses. A local fisherman’s dog returned home with a purple nose. Curious, he followed his furry friend to the shores to find the source. Much later, Phoenician and Carthaginian traders settled around the seventh century B.C. and harvested the purple substance in large scale that gave the good dog his coloured nose. A die, along with salt and fish, that went on to become one of the city’s prime exports.

by retro traveler

Along the shores is a promenade, and a rather flat concrete dock area. Tables and grills are often littered on it, specially in the lunch and evening times. The fishermen can be seen prepping up their nets, baiting their hooks, and repairing the boats. In fact, Essaouira fishermen are curious folk. Unlike their professional kin across the world, whatever time they are not in the sea fishing is not spent in the tavern. Once the rather lazy afternoon passes, the fishermen venture out for the catch and come back late night or early morning when the same area becomes a raucous fish market.

Not very far away, is the spice souq. What can be found here is nothing short of astounding. The stalls are often small, only sometimes dusty (this no indication of slow business) and variously coloured. The richness of textures, aromas, and a sense of exotic magic makes me think of Diagon Alley. Brahim pulls out jar after jar from shelves reaching right to the ceiling. They are innocent tea leaves, sweet tobacco, herbal Viagra, baldness cure, and many other that is very difficult to pronounce and even more so to remember their use.

Morocco/Essaouira by Mait Jüriado

All about the food and the trinkets

If the markets of Marrakech are to be compared to the ones found here, the multiple lanes lined with shops come across a little more sober, but by no means any less vibrant or rich. Essaouira instead offers a small but terrific range and, in fact, some travelers prefer it to the more crowded Marrakech. Woodwork is a craft deeply etched here. Almost as much as fishing itself. Near the Skala de la Ville is an amazing maze of woodcarving workshops. The marquetry work is often made in the same complex where they are put on sale, and it is lovely to watch men of all ages bring out such work of art. The produce is made from the local fragrant thuya wood. While it is enchanting to watch the intricacy of the carvings, buying one is strongly discouraged. The tree species is now endangered. However, at the same shops, made equally beautifully are products from regular wood.

by sheriffmitchell

Rafia is one of Essaouira’s most esteemed handcraft – trinkets as well as sprawling products made delicately from doum palm fibers. The Tilal des Arts Plastiques sell works by local painters. And out of nowhere, maintained by a former New York resident, is Galerie Aida, a shop stock full of a rather good selection of English books, and some interesting junk.

Good shopping and fantastic walking comes along with great food. And like everything else, haggling is not an irritation, but quite a mild, smile punctuated, and enjoyable addition to it. Another Essaouira uniqueness is a semi-restaurant. It is a name fashioned by me, for lack of a better term. You do the shopping, at any place you like, but most likely at the market by the shore. Then give it to the expert cooks here, and they will cook up the most delightful course, right in front of you, on open fire. And sometimes even in earthen vessels to accentuate the taste. There are, of course, the regular eateries too. Classic restaurants are seldom fun and it is best to keep off them. Food in Morocco tastes so much better in the open. Choose which of the blokes declaring “best price” you want to go for, participate in a spirited negotiation, dust off a section of the bench, choose from tanks full of fresh seafood, and you are good to go.

Fresh lunch Essaoura - Morocco by i am indisposed

There’s something about “Rock the Casbah”

There’s something about the Moroccan music which is not easily defined or described. Picture a music form with all the goodness of the innumerable genres, let’s throw in the Californian Saw for good measure – we will perhaps begin to describe the first few notes of the form. It is truly enchanting listening to the men singing in the evenings at the dock. When the 1982 song by “The Clash” hit the Billboard Hot 100 chart, little did anyone know that the song which was sung in various Arabic, Turkish, and Sanskrit loan-words like sharif, sheikh and casbah, would be sung by artists in a tiny port town in Africa. The song features quite commonly in the annual Gnawa and World Music Festival, which proves to be a transforming experience.

by fabiogis50 AWAY

Taros is a popular watering hole here (surprisingly so, even with the very liberal muslim locals) and sitting on its rooftop is arguably one the best ways to be engaged in the festival, if you are not a musician yourself.

Now the festival is mighty different from any other event with a similar name. For one, it is not held in an auditoriam, sweaty foodball field, or Central Park. It is held in the entire city; every lane, every square and every open space. It is common to see musicians put down their instruments and groove to the music of the others. There is no genre boundary – jazz, rock, hip-hop, classical, anything. As long as it sounds good to one, it is performed, and cheered.

In Essaouira during the festival by Vince Millett

One other thing that almost skipped my mind was the importance of the hippie populace of old. A part of the legendary hippie trail, this place reveled in all the good that came off that era. Loy Ehrlich, a celebrated French guitarist, was a 19 year old hippie when he came here; that was in 1971. Now, he is the artistic director of the Gnawa Festival.

This out-of-the-way, off the beaten path town, which was for ages called by its Portugese name of Mogador, comes with only a handful of hotels, average to sometimes bad roads, and no fancy resorts or malls. It is a place where one can really just let the hair down.

- Debnath

Man in Essaouira by Vince Millett

Chiang Mai, Songkran by fredalix - อาลิกส์

The whole mayhem starts innocently enough – there are a few stray sprinkles of water and a gentle dusting on the cheeks with the fragrant sandalwood powder. A welcome ritual that gives away no indication of what’s to come.

On Khao San Road, buy the time its noon, gallons of water fly across the street. There are double-barrelled water guns to be spotted everywhere, and all of them ominously seem to be aiming for you. And of course, there is a very formidable reinforcement always present just round the corner. But the war is a peaceful one. No matter how much of an oxymoron it sounds like. It is all good natured. The “land of smile” does not disappoint. In turns innocent, feverish, gentle, adventurous and sometimes erotic, its a raindance like none other.  There’s a rather simple reason to include the water – it signifies the cleansing and purification of one’s soul before the start of the New Year. While the whole city goes for a dip, there’s sangtip (a fiery Thai amber-fluid) on offer. Usually sold in the numerous shacks and more permanent establishments on the roadsides.

Songkran Water Guns by SteveMcN

The festivities, although particularly magnificent in Bangkok, Chianmai, Pattaya and Phuket, they are just as easily spotted anywhere else in the country. More organized versions are held at Ayutthaya. And Chiang Mai has made a name for itself for the street food that mushrooms at the time.

In Phuket, the merry-making takes over the numerous beaches. There are night-long parties, communal water-baths, gushes of scented lustral water, and more recently, a string of events at the Dolphin Park, the port and the Jungceylon plaza.

The purists, of course, frown just a little at the extravagance. A much more tame but nevertheless fascinating side of it can be seen on visiting a Wat (Wat ka Phrew would be prime for this). Mystical prayer ceremonies are held by the monks and the Buddha idols are cleansed with intense devotion. In the northern parts of the country, people usually carry hands-full of sand to monasteries. The belief is that they recompense the dirt (allegorical) which they have accumulated at their feet over the year. The sand is then used to form miniature stupas.

While the entire nation celebrates, shopping takes the biggest hit; malls, flea markets, shopping streets, everything remain closed. However, away from the ‘party’ areas, things take on a much-missed quiet veil. A great time to stroll leisurely along a city’s many attractions, if one would rather not be throwing water balloons.

-Debnath

Songkran Celebrations by ol'pete

Having said that, the fact also remains that travel is perhaps an industry most affected by clichés. Kerala’s not spared either – with the ever-seen backwaters and those ayurvedic spas. Given that they are, no doubt brilliantly charming, there’s a lot more to Kerala that is easily missed. And sadly too!

Kathakali artist partially made up by thaths

Of Nimmy’s Plump Kerala Shrimps

Going beyond the said clichés, an exploration pledged on off-the-beaten-paths quite naturally stirs towards the locale’s gastronomical treasures. Tasting it comes without considerations but making of the same, well, that’s a whole new side of it.

Take for instance, vastly traveled Nimmy and her delightful culinary creations. Some have described her as being sophisticated. However, perhaps a more accurate description can be found through her skills in a quite starkly traditional kitchen.

Once nominated in the “Worlds of Flavor”; the international conference organized by Culinary Institute of America, mainly by the personal recommendation of late R.W. Apple Jr. (a New York Times food and travel writer), Nimmy and her stockbroker husband Paul runs Nimmy and Paul in Kochi.  On offer are full day cooking classes, including a meal which usually comes with her brilliant plump Kerala shrimps. Often cooked over embers of a wood fire.

by alickmighall

Elephant Matters

In Kerala, elephants matter. And there are elephant matters. They are seen everywhere. Even more than those omnipresent cows more common in the northern parts of the country. They can be seen taking a ride atop trucks, enjoying a siesta in temple courtyards, carrying loads of green grass and wheat along country lanes, and chasing you in the middle of a night on a road-trip.

There is a particular tale that comes from a noted traveler, Amit Verma. He writes about this tale (Elephant’s in Kerala); a story that is just as easily heard from any other traveler who takes the trouble of getting out of the guide book.

Elephant riding down the road to Kerala in a truck by newyorkprof

There is a longish stretch of road on the way from Munnar to Siena that meanders through a dense jungle, and ‘sometimes, elephants attack cars.’ mentions Amit and the friendly, but usually talkative drivers. It is not uncommon to find the way inconveniently blocked by an auto-rickshaw and a random commercial hatchback while a bloke comes out gesturing and swinging the arms like windmills asking one to stop. In apparently complex Malayalam (as usually translated later in a safe hotel room), he declares; “there are elephants charging down the road”. While one might be jostled right out of his skin, it will certainly be a lucky case to find a driver who will take evasive steps before he explicitly instructs his passengers to take photographs of the moving peril.

by friedwater

The Jerusalem Connection, Kathalaki and Chinese Fishing nets

“1,000 Places to See Before You Die” is the best seller that retouched Kerala for the western world. Not that it needed any more brushes. The book takes the name of many “staggeringly beautiful” backwaters in the state. However, the book only just mentions a stopover in Kochi.

What’s missed, behind the interconnected lakes, lagoons and canals, is a multi-layered colonial history, and a magnificently orchestrated and colourful Kathakali dance ritual. And then some more.  Ever since “God’s own country” and the subtly sensual ad clip became synonymous with Kerala tourism, boutique hotels on the waterfront have bloomed. That lead to some pretty exotic fashion boutiques and antiques shops.

The colonial visages left behind are complex – there are Chinese fishing nets, Dutch houses, those spectacular Portuguese churches and of course, true to the times old, English trading company buildings. Nearby, Mattancheri throws in a Jewish presence to boot. Residents date back to as far as 72 A.D. – not long after the razing of the Second Temple of Jerusalem.

Chinese fishing nets at sunset Taken in Cochin by Marina & Enrique

Y.M.C.A makes its presence felt with the filtering out American gospels and white clad nuns walking purposefully on the streets. Mattancheri sits about a 10-minute auto-rickshaw ride from city center. Here’s Jew Town. Find yourself the synagogue – the prayer house was built in 1568 and it would be prudent to leave the shoes at the door; nothing religious here – its to protect the 200-year-old, hand-painted Chinese floor murals.

A musical interpretation comes in the form of the colour-riot Kathakali performances. Daily shows at Fort Cochin. It pays to make it early to watch the performers get on with their elaborate makeup. The performances are essentially dance-dramas. A more extravagant shows is presented daily at the Cochin Cultural Center.

Katakali Danse traditionnelle, Inde du sud by Wyemji

Periyar and the Martial Arts

Thekkady (of the Idukki district) mainly centers around Periyar; a protected area, and a nature reserve with Kumily being the nearest town center. And Periyar forms the basis of a trip here. An early morning boat ride with an upper deck seat is by far the best way to explore the lake. That, to be followed by a quick jungle hike (not without a local guide). A whole long list of wildlife peeps through the greenery.  Apart from that, the vistas are stunning. At Kadathanadan Kalari Centre , traditional martial art is performed. The arena is surrounded by a gallery – made to view the performances of what is, a psycho-physiological discipline stemming from the state’s mythological heritage.

Playing with fire Taken during the Kalarippayattu demonstration by seeveeaar

The backwaters are indeed quite unique to themselves. The spas are ever so relaxing. But its worth it to look beyond the nirvana promising therapies and going for the traditional travel – good old phrase book in hand and a map!

-Debanth

a walk in to the woods by VinothChandar